In general, it is a good idea to make your bookings at home, not only for flights which is essential, but also for local transport and accommodation. Given that the regular safari implies a lot of movement, just one failure in bookings may ruin all the trip. Apart from this, there are as many types of trips as travellers, but all of them can be grouped in three basic varieties. Let us review the pros and cons for each of them.

Van with driver:

The most usual way of travelling to Kenya is through a safari agency, which will arrange a group trip. You can either join a bigger group, cheaper but sharing transport with other people and with no possibility of choosing your itinerary, or otherwise make a private safari, just your party with a tailor-made itinerary.

In both cases you will travel in a nine seat minibus with a professional driver. Vehicles are equipped with a roofhatch for viewing wildlife and taking pictures from an elevated point of view, which is very convenient, especially when the grass is high. Obviously, in common safaris the minibus may be full, whereas in your private safari you will have all the seats available. Normally, local operators will gather together in a single group different tourists travelling with different agencies and different rates. However, don't forget that the difference in price may correspond to other additional services, like for instance insurance coverage.

In general, drivers act as guides at the same time, reason why they are usually well knowers of both the roads and the wildlife. If you organise a private safari and you wish to focus on something in particular, for example birds, you may ask your safari agency for a specialised guide.

The advantages of this system lie mainly in that you don't have to care about driving or the eventual breakdowns; local drivers are experts in car mechanics. They know perfectly the parks and roads, so you will very rarely get lost. They know the suitable places for finding animals and they keep in contact with other drivers, so your driver can receive information from another one regarding the location of an interesting animal. They can also act as Swahili interpreters whenever it may be necessary, and they can tell you about the tribes, their habits, etc.

Concerning the cons, it means loosing freedom of movement to a certain extent, mostly in the case of common safaris, because the group decides what to do and where to go above personal interests. The usual thing then is that the driver finally decides. Further, guides have their time hired for the game drives. Usually you will get two game drives, at dawn and at dusk, and possibly a third one at midday. The rest of the time you will remain stuck at the lodge and any extra drive must be paid separately. Lodges usually offer game drive service, but at very costly rates.

Rented car:

More people are travelling each year in a rented car, mainly second time travellers. This type of trip requires renting a 4 Wheel Drive, since some roads are very rough for salon cars. You will need the international driving license, which you can obtain in your country, but don't forget your original driving license.

There are several rent-a-car companies, both the locals and the top multinationals (Avis, Hertz, Budget,...). The first issue is rates. Since roads are rough, vehicles get a lot of suffering along the journeys. Together with the high prices for spare parts, import taxes, etc., this serves as an excuse for rising the prices to levels that would allow, for a three week safari, to purchase a similar used vehicle in Europe. A big 4WD, five to eight seats plus luggage, like a Mitsubishi Pajero, Toyota Land Cruiser or Land Rover Discovery, with unlimited mileage, costs around 10,000-15,000 Kshs per day. A smaller car, for 2-4 persons, such as a Suzuki Sierra, costs about 5,000 Kshs per day. These rates exclude insurance and possibly a refundable deposit.

The roads are improved periodically. In the most visited areas, most roads are already paved. Weather greatly damages the road network, dirt tracks become heavily muddy after the rains and the paved roads get cracked until traffic opens big potholes which sometimes are real craters. In case you had to cross some big puddle or a mud area, learn how to use the 4WD gear. Tracks inside the parks are entirely unpaved.

Upon picking the vehicle, ask for two spare wheels (which no doubt will be recycled) and check that the jack works. Punctures are frequent and you may also break a couple of shock absorbers. Vehicles are old, with many kilometers and often badly maintained. If you dominate car mechanics, it will serve you well.

Driving in Kenya is on the left, British heritage in many of their former colonies. If you belong to a right-driving country, don't worry, you will soon get used to it. Pedals and gears are not inverted, they keep the same position you already know. You just have to adapt to a different appreciation of the car's dimensions, since most of the vehicle's volume will be on your left.

Orientation is critical when driving on your own. Good maps, a compass, a GPS, and a waypoint collection are a must. Signalling along the roads is erratic, sometimes you will find signposts and sometimes you won't. If you get lost, something pretty usual, you can always count on the natives' help, but perhaps they might speak rudimentary English or nothing at all. Ask the young people, they will probably speak English. Keep your Swahili skills at hand.

Eventually, you may have a breakdown in a solitary place, like inside a park at the times of the day when the groups are by the swimming pool. If you are unable to repair it on your own, wait patiently till someone appears, the first driver to pass along will help you. Conversely, if you find another driver in trouble, lend a hand.

The accident rate in Kenya is bloodcurdling. Some buses and lorries are a public danger, drivers often drink too much and sleep too little. Be extremely careful when driving, specially along roads with heavy traffic. Always give way, even if you have the right.

Concerning personal safety on the roads, read the "safety issues" page.

Fill your tank before leaving the lodge. Carrying a jerrycan filled with fuel provides a great relief. Petrol stations are restricted to the main towns and cities. Concerning petrol stations inside the parks, don't trust heavily in maps, some of them are outdated. Seek confirmation from the park rangers or the lodge staff.

All the above implies that there are multiple cons for this option. High prices, getting lost, breakdowns, dangers, being all alone,...

What about the advantages? The most obvious one is that, since you don't depend on drivers and timings, you can spend all the time you wish driving through the parks, with the only limitation of the times allowed for driving, usually from 6 AM to 7 PM. The great advantage is to depend just on your own. Personally I've always chosen this option, not only in Kenya but in 30 more countries. It is difficult to explain and even maybe not too logical, but if you share my views you will understand perfectly. The sensation of freedom is unparalleled, even with breakdowns, punctures and problems, or maybe just because of breakdowns, punctures and problems.

Public transport:

Depending just on public transport for a safari in Kenya is unfeasible. The main reason is that the only way to visit most of the major parks and reserves is by car. Leaving the car is forbidden except in specially designated areas, which are usually few.

Taxis offer a possibility, but only for the parks which lie close to large cities (Nairobi, Nakuru), since taxis are expensive for foreigners and this is not either the most practical way to travel the country or to visit the parks. Every time you take a taxi, agree the fare in advance. For safety reasons, always ask for taxis to the hotels' or restaurants' employees.

There are collective taxis, the so-called matatus. The name derives from the Swahili tatu, meaning "three", since the fare was traditionally 3 shillings. They are minibuses similar to the ones used for safaris, and they cover trips inside the cities and connecting different towns. They are uncomfortable, crowded and the drivers are reckless. Pay attention to your belongings, pickpockets are frequent.

Buses connecting cities are operated by private companies. This is the cheapest way to move in Kenya. They are partly responsible for the high accident rates in the country.

The train, operated by Kenya Railways, only covers long distance trips along the Mombasa-Nairobi-Kisumu railroad. Trains have first, second and third classes. Return tickets are valid for three months and cancellations must be done 24 hours before departure. The fares include meals and taxes. You can find the prices and timetables here.

There is also a special daily service called Iron Snake, a classical train that makes the trip Nairobi-Mombasa or viceversa. Departures are in the afternoon and arrives to destination the next morning. The price includes supper and breakfast and the train has first and second class. This service is available upon request and its price during the year 2002 is 106 USD.

Domestic flights are very useful for long distances, for instance Nairobi-Mombasa. It is also possible to hire air taxis for trips from park to park, since most of them have at least one airstrip. This service is not expensive, around 100 USD, however the extensive use of this transport would make you loose the feeling of the country on the ground. After all, the road's dust is also part of safari. Air taxis operate from Wilson Airport in Nairobi.

Communications by ship are very scarce. There are no international services in Lake Victoria, just some domestic connections. At the Indian Ocean coast you will still find some of the old dhows, the lateen sail boats formerly used by the Arabs. Naturally, now they have an engine too.